Nearing the end of the 16th century ruffs became so large that the heavy starching was not enough to support them. The creation of a rigid supportasse helped to support the garment and was fashionable for a few years. Gradually the supportasse was not worn and the ruff was allowed to naturally fall onto the shoulders and eventually was simplified further into the collare.
Ispirazione del Progetto
Facendo il Progetto
Measuring the Collare
To determine the length of the fabric to cut, multiply the neck measurement by 1 1/2. This will be gathered back to the the neck measurement on the top but not the bottom with pleating clocks to create the large flat laying collar. The width of the fabric can vary depending on how big a collar you are trying to create, however should most likely be at least 6 inches (mine are usually 7 inches) or wider to ensure the collar looks right.
Larger lace requires less material in the length of the collar. In the case of 3 inch the extra inches on each side to accommodate for the lace. The with of these collars will also not be as long. Cut the with of the band for 3 inch lace to a 5 inch width.
First, finish the edges on the sides and back of the cuffs leading the side that will be sewn into the wrist band with a mini double fold to hid the raw edge.
Creating the Clocks
One way to determine your darts which are called clocks is divide the circumference of the neck or wrist by the length fabric for the collar or cuff to determine the size of clocks. Since this is an smaller piece is is also easy to eyeball it.
For the cuff I was able to place a clock every inch of so and it worked out just fine with minor adjustment. Clocks will be smaller on the cuffs than on the falling collars.
Starting from the center, mark each clock and fold and pin them in place. This will start creating a rounded shape on the outer edge. You can further shape the clocks by holing the clock at the fold on the inside edge and pulling on the outer edge at the end of the clock where the point would fall. Once they are to you satisfaction stitch the clocks on the inner edge where the fold begins and press the clocks to hold their placement. It desire you can further stitch the clocks in place but hand or with machine, but by hand looks more authentic. However, the clocks on cuffs may be small enough to not require any additional stitching.
The Collar Band
Band should be 4 inches in width and the length of the neck measurement plus one additional inch for a 1/2 inch allowance on each side.
Joining
Insert the cuff into the band about half an inch and pin in place to ensure that the edge is straight. The cuff may not complete flat on the rounded end while doing this but as long as the edges match the inward fold on the banding it is okay. Stitch over the band, closely to the edge where the two pieces are joined, but being sure to catch BOTH the back and front of the banding.
Finishing
Add your preferred method of closure. Historically these were pin to garment or baste stitched in, however for practically and ease of self-dressing I like to use two buttons on the underside of of the of the sides and loops sewn onto the edge of the other.
Add lace it desired to the rounded edge of the cuffs. Black-working and other trims can also be added.
